As a starter, before anyone starts to say that potters and ceramists are a energy spending and CO2 producing kind of breed, I will defend me and my collegues:

- first, there exists some very energy efficiënt wood kilns that can be fired with recent grown wood, so CO2 neutral in a time span of 3 years!

- Already, when there is stormy wheater, there is too much electricity on the market in Werstern Europe, so normally, there is no shortage of electricity; I even predict:

In a few years, there will be too much electricity, unless we use it to power our cars and heat water or even warm our (isolated) houses with it.

See my ceramics (My Pots) at : https://www.flickr.com/photos/ronald2/albums/72157645076784822  

I. How to make an medieval tile

a) The basics:

- wooden frame

- the dye (stempel)

- cutting knive

- Red clay (gets brown when baked above cone 0 (1200 °C)

- contrast clay -(white) engobe: white pottery clay is good enough (low cost!)

- Mix the clay with some fine, white sand for stability, more strength and durability, less deformation and cost cutting.

b) Making the dye

.1 Choosing a suited image or real tile, not to complicated and few little details.

.2 Adapt the image to the dye (tile)

.3 Mirror the image! Do not forget!

.4 Choose a good cutting substrate:

- wood

- carpet alternative

- plaster (gypsum)

.5 Cut out the dye

.6 Make some try-outs

.7 If OK, biscuit bake the tiles.

.8 Grind if necessary

.9 Apply the glaze (only upper side)

°10 final and second baking (1140 -1180°C): glaze baking.

See some results!

! Reference doc: Inlay tiles from Antwerp in an european context (original publication, in Dutch) !

II. Ceramicists:

Interview with Ann Van Hoey our famous ceramic designer.


Medieval tile The Griffin - first try                        

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